Comments on: Tips for winter cycling in the Pacific Northwest

By: Augsburg

Augsburg — Tue, 22 Nov 2016 00:44:07 +0000

I ride about 5 days a week, all winter long and regarding clothing for bike riding in the Pacific Northwest: I have best luck with “soft-shell” or fleece jackets that are rated “windproof” but not “waterproof”. I find that windproof jackets stay warm and dry inside. Waterproof Goretex or copycats products don’t breather sufficiently for me – especially when climbing hills. I’ll end up soaked under a waterproof jacket. Multiple layers, a thin headband and warm cycling gloves – along with my windproof soft-shell jacket and I can ride almost any weather.

By: Joseph Herbert

Joseph Herbert — Sun, 08 Nov 2015 12:31:34 +0000

In reply to Joseph Herbert. * Tevas or Chacos

By: Joseph Herbert

Joseph Herbert — Sun, 08 Nov 2015 12:30:38 +0000

my cheap + highly effective foot-solution, for wet weather:

Sandals (Tevas or Chocos),
no socks,
+ soft booties (made of wetsuit-type-material… sorry, I don’t know they’re called, but it’s the exact same stretchy, insulating, fabric that scuba-diving wetsuits are made from).

Advantages:
Yes, my feet are wet — BUT they stay warm (even in 40-degree weather),

and my feet — plus the sandals — are VERY easy to wash & dry…. much easier, quicker, and more durable than shoes/socks.

By: David C

David C — Sat, 07 Nov 2015 15:40:06 +0000

Your advice on tires is dangerous. Knobby tires on wet pavement provide far less traction than slick tires. Knobby patterns provide less contact area, and knobs on the tread can flex around, particularly in corners. Having some tread in you tire pattern could be of some merit for road debris, such as fallen leaves, but going with an inverse tread pattern makes much more sense.

By: Gerhardt Bikykle

Gerhardt Bikykle — Thu, 02 Jan 2014 15:53:42 +0000

I pretty much agree with the gist of what the article says. I, too, am a “penny-pincher” and have come up with these options.
Shower cap over the helmet. Polka-dots add a Fashion Statement.
Industrial strength rubber gloves (~$3.00 at grocery stores) large enough to accommodate wool or polypro gloves on your hands & fingers. Do NOT get them too small so they are tight.
I wear an “expensive” Shower’s Pass rain jacket. And army-surplus water-proof pants for my 45-minute commute.
High-top rubber boots that FIT MY FEET (with socks) that I have cut down to ankle-high. Dry Feet = GOOD!! Use rubber bands to close pants (see above) around the top of these boots.
I do not “race” to work, and I do not dawdle. When I get to work the rain pants are slightly moist inside from sweat, and maybe the glove liners need drying out — which is totally easy and takes ~ an hour (leather takes longer).
Full fenders on bike!

By: Kenneth Cohen

Kenneth Cohen — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 12:51:58 +0000

I like the article for the topics it covers, but I don’t feel the need to go to expensive gear to survive. I commute 11 miles each way and I use expensive gloves for sub-freezing, but synthetic liners like inexpensive tees and tights with a decent windbreaker can make up for a $200 + coat. In the wet, when it’s cold, a pair of plastic shopping bags to keep the feet dry are good for a commute like mine. It’s not long enough to cause your feet to sweat too much and it keeps your feet dry and warm, I love wool and look for sale items anytime I can find them. Wool socks, an under-the-helmet cap, and glove liners are good, inexpensive alternative to the bicycling-specific products that are often too expensive to justify.

By: Phil

Phil — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 10:04:12 +0000

I appreciate an article on the subject but this was more of a product showcase rather than being informative or helpful for me. Personally the major factors I’ve gleaned from winter riding in Vancouver are the following:
• invest in a good pair of cycling tights – forget any kind of water proof pants. You will get wet, but with the heat trapped in those water proof pants, you will get wetty sweat any way. The tights allow your legs to breathe and if you’re riding at a good pace your legs will not get cold.
• Screw buying expensive bike gloves engineered to be warm and repel water. Buy yourself a cheap pair of leather gloves – they’ll get soaked but they’ll keep you fairly comfortable and shouldn’t overheat your hands – dry them out and they’re good to go. And you won’t have any anxiety about dropping them in a puddle of dirt and mud.
• Invest in powerful front and rear lights, totally worth it. Definitely get substantial fenders installed (other riders will thank you)… consider purchasing a closed helmet. I use one designed for Snowboarders (with warm lining) but it is rated for cycling.

By: Raymond Parker

Raymond Parker — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 09:52:34 +0000

Some good tips, but I’d differ with the idea that knobby tires “add an element of stability to rainy riding, though the knobs can work against you if the rain turns to snow.”

Knobs won’t do a thing for you on pavement, where it’s preferable to keep as much rubber on the road as possible. The tires recommended are made for soft surfaces, where knobs may indeed give more grip (that includes snow, though studs may also help).

Hydroplaning on bikes is impossible, unless the rider can reach around 200 km/h.